Author: Sharon

Last month we were in Winnipeg. Usually our concern is whether or not we’ll run into winter and freeze to death. Living in lotus land means we’ve totally lost our acclimatization for winter. Turned out not to be a problem this time around. In fact, it was warmer in Winnipeg than it was in Victoria. In fact, it was 23 degrees. I mean – really? That’s a really nice summer day out here.

The good folks of Winnipeg were cavorting in shorts, t-shirts and flip flops. And, while I applaud their desire to enjoy the warm weather, there’s one thing. There wasn’t a speck of green. Not a blade of grass. Not a bud open on a tree. They had vaulted straight from winter to summer temps without pausing for spring. The roads hadn’t even been swept of the dust and gravel.

From the 8th floor, Portage and Sherbrook, looking south:

Looking southwest:

If it weren’t for those pesky Rocky Mountains we might have been able to see all the way back to Vancouver Island.

We had a great visit with Wilf’s Mom, got her taxes sorted, ate at Stella’s and then headed back to the green and flowery West Coast.

Well, mostly just around, in winter hibernation. Unusually for Wilf and I we stayed put this winter. And we picked a good one – mild temperatures, little rain – no snow! In fact spring came very early this year – the cherry trees were out in February, and we had our first daffodil blooms right at the end of the month. The early rhodos are out now and the garden looks good – lots to look at already.

We did take a quick trip to Seattle at the beginning of February – thought we’d get over and back before all the Olympic hoohah started. We shopped and ate and walked and had a nice few days. The bus tunnel that services downtown Seattle is back in service, which makes for some speedy moving about.

One discovery we made is that The Elliott Bay Book Company is moving. Okay, we may have been the last people to find out, but I’m glad we didn’t just show up there one day and find them gone. The actual move begins tomorrow –they’re promising a great location in another building with squeaky fir floors – and parking – so there’s that!

Well, now that spring has sprung and hibernation is over I’ll aim to update more frequently. And I’ll leave you with a picture that we took on our Seattle trip:

Yep those are four full grown Newfoundland dogs in the back of a pickup. We stopped for coffee at Sehome Village, Bellingham, as we usually do. Sitting in my chair by the window I had the sense of being watched. When I turned around I was eye to eye with a very large black dog. Being a Newf he had a ‘Wassup? Wanna play?’ look about him. His owner went out and tried to send him back to the truck, but no way, he wanted to be where the action was. It wasn’t until owner guy walked the dog back to the pickup and put him in the cab that we realized that there were four more in the back of the truck! That led to quite a buzz around the coffee shop – ‘Imagine the food for those guys! Food, shmood – imagine the poop situation!’ I wasn’t the only one out in the parking lot taking pictures of these beauties. (And yes, since we were in Bellingham in the winter it was drizzling, so those were five huge wet dogs….)

I was going to write about how cold it had gotten here, cold enough to open extra beds at the homeless shelters. Then I looked at what is happening in Calgary. So – never mind.

There is an upside to these arctic outflows  – sun, beautiful sun. Just cover up your tender bits!

I’m not done with the Japan trip quite yet, I’m just trying to get my bearings now that we’re back on this side of the world.

We left Tokyo on Tuesday, November 10 at 5:30 p.m. and arrived in Vancouver on Tuesday, November 10 at 9:30 a.m. Argh – I’m just not going to think too much about that date line thing.

Thursday morning we were on an 8:00 a.m. flight out of Victoria and we’re now in Winnipeg. So, sleep comes when it does, which is usually not when the world around us is in sleep mode – we’re falling asleep all day, wide awake at night. I’m sure we’ll just get sorted in time to go back to Victoria on Wednesday.

We find things here in Winnipeg in good shape. Wilf’s mom is settled into her new home and is happy to have a room of her own.

I’ll be back soon with more pictures and stories of our adventures. I’ve really appreciated hearing from you all about these postings. I sort of feel like I’m talking to myself – it’s good to know you are out there!

When we first arrived in Japan we stayed in Asakusa, the district that contains the great Sensoji Temple. While wandering around the grounds we came across a small shrine called Chingo-do, which is dedicated to the Tanuki, also known as the raccoon dog or badger. Here’s a rascally looking three some:

As well as being the deity for protection against fire and theft, Sir Raccoon Dog is also a symbol of flourishing business. Bars and noodle shops, in particular, usually have a statue of a tanuki out front. We figure its a sort of ‘good time  here’ symbol.

Wilf decided that he needed a tanuki for a souvenir. The area around the temple in Asakusa is thick with souvenir shops so we returned there today. I managed to find the Japanese name for the critter – trying to explain to someone who doesn’t speak English that I wanted a small statue of a badger just seemed like a recipe for failure.

Good luck cats, Hello Kitty in all incarnations, owls – no problem. Tanuki – not so easy. Asakusa is also the part of town where the restaurant supply stores are – the guidebooks send tourists there to see where all the fake food on display in front of Japanese restaurants comes from. Figuring that restaurants have to get their tanuki from somewhere we set off. Finding one with just the right facial expression was a challenge – goofy, but not too comic like. With teeth…… There were some big ones that were great and would have made a great water feature in the garden. But how to get it home? Eventually we found a little one that is actually a sake container – Sir Raccoon Dog’s hat comes off for use as a sake cup. I’ll have to show you a picture later, as he’s currently packed up for transport.

After achieving success in the badger department we decided to walk down to the river. And lo and behold – a big water taxi to take us to places unknown. We hopped on and away we went. It is easy to forget that Tokyo is on the ocean, has a big port and also has a whole river network running through it. We passed under 14 bridges, and saw many more on side channels. That explains why so many subway stations end with ‘bashi, which means bridge.

While waiting for the water taxi I bought another charm from a vending machine. This caused much excitement amongst the groups of ladies standing behind me, especially when I couldn’t get the plastic bubble it came in open. They couldn’t stand it, took it away and passed it around until they got it. I was balancing camera, purse, knapsack, packages, and when I was fumbling getting the charm onto my camera I thought the mama-san’s were going to take that over too! They were a hoot!

Once back to shore we made our way to Shibuya. If you’ve seen the movie ‘Lost in Translation’ you’ve seen this intersection. It is a scramble – the cars go in one direction, then the other. Then the cars wait and people cross however they need to . It is a sea of humanity surrounded by oceans of neon – all set to the latest J-pop blasting from the speakers!

Tired tonight after roaming the city all day. The plan today was to visit the Harajuku district. On Sundays this is were the kids go in their crazy clothes – the more outlandish, the better. We arrived via JR train a bit on the early side and wandered through some of the lanes. Definitely where the young ‘uns shop. We made a loop back up to where the action was to be. From a distance we could hear a hectoring female voice over a loudspeaker. This is surprisingly common, in a country that so values discretion and politeness. Trucks drive by advertising via loudspeakers, vendors on the street are using loudspeakers to entice shoppers. Since we can’t understand what they’re on about its just a lot of noise.

Back to the bridge by train station – no crazy clothes. But hundreds of people streaming out of the train station with banners. At this point it was just on to 11:00 a.m. We followed down the street for a bit – the hectoring voice was coming from a van by the side of the road with a group of what could only be local politicians bowing and smiling while this woman went on and on and on. On one side of the road is a huge park that people are heading towards in large groups. On the other side of the road is a huge arena, where there appears to be a rhythmic gymnastics competition going on, given the number of very young  girls in sparkly eye makeup and carrying fancy hoops.

I managed to find a young policeman who could manage enough English to confirm that there was a political demonstration about to happen in the park. We decided to walk back down through the shopping area and let things settle for a bit.

The fancy shopping area was packed with people out for a day of strolling and shopping. Once clear of the Harajuko street area proper we were into designer land – huge Ralph Lauren stand alone store, Louis Vuitton store, Harry Winston, you name it. Back in Harajuko we got a local snack – crepes, rolled up in a cone like an ice cream cone, filled with yummy stuff.

By now it was about 1:15, and only a few people on the bridge looking kind of purple and gothy. And then there was this guy:

Dude – aren’t you a little old for this?

We found a cafe near the entrance to the Meji park shrine. Lots of parents bringing their kids to the shrine for blessings as part of the 7-5-3 festival. Lots of tourists. And then, about 1:15, the singing started. And the chanting. The folks we saw at 11:00 heading for their demonstration were now, at 1:15 returning up the street. For 45 minutes they kept coming and coming. Chanting, singing. A sea of people. Carrying lots of signs and banners. Lots of police keeping an eye on things.

Passing the train station – at first I thought they might be heading from rally to the train to go home, but no – they just kept on going….

Like I’ve said – it is a real nuisance, being illiterate.

We scooted over to Roppongi to see the Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midcity  developments – they’re like cities within the city. Amazing architecture:

and these two cuties and their Dad – playing in one of the sculptures.

We have covered a ton of ground, and are thoroughly the city. So much to see – we never know what we’re going to find when we come up from the subway- will we step into the 21st century, or go back in time down some tiny little alley of little bars and eateries?

According to Wikipedia Shinjuku Station in West Tokyo is the busiest train station in the world. I have no reason to doubt that. Apparently on about 3.5 million people per day pass through the station complex.

3.5 million. Per day.

We decided to pay our respects on a weekend, hoping to find the crowds somewhat diminished. This seems like a good time to talk about the amazing Tokyo transit system. Here’s a map:

I don’t know if that will be readable – here’s the link to the system’s website: Tokyo transit. There are some 35 lines that serve the greater Tokyo system. They loop and criss-cross back and forth. Within the city there are often many ways to get to a location. We really don’t know the where’s and why’s of one route over another, so we just pick what looks to us to be straightforward. We have rechargeable cards that allow us to access all the lines – and since there are two subway companies and one train company that simplifies things. We pass the card over the turnstile on the way in and again on the way out and it figures out what we owe. That part is simple.

A trip or two ago to Seattle Wilf found a little Tokyo subway book at Elliot Bay bookstore  and it has been our lifesaver. It gives details of each line, how the lines connect and information about the major stations. For instance – there are 60 access points to the Shinjuku station complex. It matters that you get the right one – get it wrong and you can be blocks and blocks from where you want to be in a chaotic street scene with no street signs.

The good news is that there is a rationalized signage/numbering system. Each line has a letter associated with it – and a colour. Each station has a number. The signage looks like this:

We are at Station E 07.  E is the Oedo line, the big loop around the city. Station E07 is Kasuga. Next stop is E06 – Lidabashi. In theory you could find your way by just knowing that you needed to get from station E07 to E25.There is a subway station entrance directly across from our hotel. It is for another line, but by walking underground for some time we wind up at good old E07 – we seem to use the Oedo line a lot. Usually we find our way in and out without trouble, but one night after we has passed out of the turnstiles of one line we must have zigged when we should have zagged, ‘cause when we got to our friend exit number 8 we were behind a different set of turnstiles, and our card was not happy – no ingress, so how could it calculate egress? Fortunately the two guys in booth were used to dealing with confused tourists and sorted out our cards and let us out.

So, knowing the scale of Shinjuku station we did our homework. Worked our where the store we wanted should be, what exit would be required and this morning we set out. By paying close attention we wound up exactly where we wanted to be. And at 9:30 on a Saturday morning it was pretty quiet. In fact when we found the yarn store we wanted it wasn’t open yet. Off to Starbuck’s we went – it was up on the second floor of one of the shopping complexes attached to the station. At 10:00 we looked out and saw this:

This is the manager and employees of an eyeglass store. The manager has made a speech and they all bowed to each other. Now they are bowing to the street. They then turned in unison and:

bowed in one direction, then turned and bowed the other way. People are whizzing by, totally indifferent. More talking by the boss, another round or two of bowing and then everyone set off into the store at a run. One guy came out with a broom and pail and swept not the sidewalk but the street in front of the store. Others brought out display racks, signs, a red carpet. Quite a production……

The level of service everywhere is amazing. Huge number of staff in the huge department stores. Often there is a young woman running the elevator in the department store. In full, fashionable uniform. And seeming so totally delighted to see everyone, to explain what was on each floor, to make sure that no one gets caught in the door. Customers are greeted with huge enthusiasm upon entering an establishment and sent off with much thanks upon departure.

I’ve added a new phrase to my limited repertoire. Gochisosama deshita, which means (literally) ‘Thanks to you it was delicious’. This is said to the cook/wait staff/anyone involved at the end of a meal. I find it a real tongue twister to say but I think I’ve finally got it. I sure get a reaction when I try it out. Mostly surprise, but lot’s of ‘Very Good!’ and the occasional clapping of hands. I definitely breaks their reserve!

By time we finished our day around Shinjuku station it was falling dark and the lights were coming up. The streets were crowded, the noise was great – this was what I was expecting from Tokyo!

Not quite right signage picture for today:

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Although, actually, cuppuccinno isn’t a bad name for a coffee!

Oh – and on Monday all the Starbuck’s switched to Christmas mode – decorations, music, Christmas treats, you name it. Whew – not a minute too soon!

Way back, when my family was living in Toronto we went on a vacation to Connecticut. While we were there we went to the far end of Long Island sound, where the lobster boats come in. One evening we were there when one of the boats arrived. It was full of lobsters, while was interesting and entertaining. But the big buzz on the dock was the fact that they had caught a big tuna. They had called ahead with the details, and the Japanese fish agents were there to meet them. The huge fish was deemed worthy, which meant big bonuses for everyone involved. And the fish was going by 747 from New York to Tokyo to the big fish market. I’ve always remembered that night and that great big fish.

This morning we got up at 4:00 to make our pilgrimage to the Tsukji fish market. We greeted the security guy as he opened the door to the subway at 5:00 a,m and waited with other early birds for the first train at 5:20. By 5:45 we were at the correct station. Even down in the subway we could smell fish and a group of tourists all streamed toward the market.

The market day begins at about 3:00 a.m. when the seafood and fish arrive from all over the world. Sometime after 5:00 the auction begins. Tourists have very restricted access to the auction itself, and it is difficult to get to the market early enough – night bus or taxi would do it, or a private tour. Anyhoo, by the time we arrived at 5:50 the auction was complete and the wholesalers were preparing their product. Most impressive and most important was the work on the fresh high quality tuna. These are enormous critters and it takes men with big knives to cut them up. See?

These knives are about 4.5 feet long.  There are also saw like knives to get the party started:

These fish are treated very carefully. As the big pieces are cut off they are carefully transferred to big boards, then moved on to the guys who cut them up into saleable chunks:

The price on this chunk is 7,000 yen per kilo – about $83.00/kilo.

They were still removing the frozen tunas from the auction area when we passed by – a little less gentle with these guys:

They get the band saw treatment. And there is every kind of fish or sea creature that you ever dreamt of on offer:

The market is a hive of activity. Anyone with business there is wearing rubber boots. Everyone else is stepping carefully! These guys are roaring through all over the place:

and since we are in their workplace they have the right of way. There are also guys with long wheel barrow type carts working their way through. And white Styrofoam containers everywhere. You can see in the above pictures that they are stacked on the floor full of product and up above in a storage area. Outside there is a huge fenced area with a front end loader smashing up all of the extras. The building is a big crescent shape and it has aisles and rows. After awhile the sea of critters in bins kind of organizes itself – each wholesaler has his own area, usually his own specialty, i.e. tuna, eels,shell fish,octopus, etc. Toward the back of the stacks of boxes there is a tiny little office with mama-san, who runs the phone and the cash register.

By 6:45 the merchants begin to arrive to buy their fish and seafood. We moved out to the outer market, which is a warren of streets around the main building. The restaurants begin opening at 7:00 and many had big lines already. There are also kitchen supply shops, vegetable shops, snack stands, you name it. We decided that the fitting end to our market adventure would be, of course, a fish breakfast, so we joined the crowd at a sushi restaurant. We ordered the tuna sampler – three grades of tuna sushi, one piece of ‘broiled’ fatty tuna and a tuna/pickle California roll. It was yummy .  The broiled tuna actually just had a pass of a blow torch over it! Not often we can claim our breakfast was cooked with a blow torch!

By8:30 am we were standing on the street, fed and vastly entertained.  I got to see the other end of the journey that tuna made all those many years ago, And that was only the first of the adventures for the day.

Any Blade Runner fans out there? In the movie Harrison Ford, as Rick Deckard, goes out for a noodle dinner in a crazy street scene. And we found it! In 1982 Ridley Scott had a vision of what the world would look like in 2019. Here in 2009 the area south of Ueno Station (pronounced Ooo-way-no) fits the bill. The area is called Ameyoko-cho. Under the JR train line is a warren of shops selling practically everything. Once upon a time this was a tough part of town – less tough now but crazy busy.

You can see the windows of the train that is passing up top and then the shops tucked underneath. And restaurants – all kinds of tiny little places.The trains roar over head, the crowds surge back and forth, people are calling you into their establishments.

We stopped for a beer and some skewers at a yakitori joint – the kind of place where the table is a stack of empty beer crates with a piece of wood on top and patrons perch on little wee stools.

Can you see himself in there raising his glass? The red lantern is a signal for this sort of cheap and cheerful pub like affair.

This was still fairly early in the evening – the salarymen were just starting to arrive to start their eating and drinking. Around 7;00 p.m I was taking a picture when I heard a voice behind me suggest ‘Why don’t you join us?’ and there was a group of 8 men in business suits, table covered in little dishes, waving a big bottle of sake at me. Oh – I don’t think so! They had very bright shiny sake eyes, I must say. Should they stay too long at their sake they only had to stumble down the street to the local capsule hotel:

That’s about $40.00, up on the fourth floor, above a Pachinko palace. The subway system stops for the night at 1:00 a.m., and given the size of the city it can take an hour or more on the train, so – capsule hotel it is.

And just because I can’t resist them – here’s a sign from the front of another Pachinko parlour: